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Island Peak (6189m), classified as the popular trekking peak, is the most climbed trekking peak in the Everest Region, Nepal. Locally known as Imja Tse, but popular among the climbers as Island Peak, it was first climbed by the British Expedition team as a preparation for Mt. Everest Expedition in 1953. Island Peak is the extension of the Lhotse and Lhotse Shar at the south ridge at Imja Valley, which looks like an Island in a sea of ice, viewed from Chhukung or Dingboche valley. Thus, it was named Island Peak by Eric Shipton climbing team in 1951 AD- 1953 AD.
It is considered as the first Himalayan climbing experience for novice climbers to step ahead for 7000er climbing in the Himalayas. Island Peak climb is full of glacier travel, ice climbing experience. Summit to Island Peak offers stunning views of Lhotse (8501m), Lhotse Shar (8383m), Nuptse (7879m), Baruntse (7219m), Makalu (8475m) & Ama Dablam ( 6812m).
Is Island Peak a technical climb? I am a beginner, am I qualified to climb Island Peak?
This Island Peak climb is physically challenging but not too technical. Due to the glacier melting from global warming, Island Peak climb has become more technical over the time. On summit day, there are crevasses along the route so it requires the use of a ladder. In addition, you have to use fixed ropes on steep snow slopes and ice headwall during this climb. Trekkers who are energetic, are in excellent health condition and physically in shape with little or no experience in himalayan climbing are still qualified to plan this adventure climbing with us. However, we strongly recommend trekkers to gain the basic experience of rope work and mountaineering skill training to plan this climb in the Himalayas. In addition, you are walking in different environments and mountain conditions during your trek and climb in the Himalayas so keeping your mindset positive is extremely important for safety and success.
Itinerary & Acclimatization:
On this trip, you will be staying in Kathmandu for two nights before flying to Lukla to start this trek and climb so it will help you to relax from your jet lag. While on trek days, you will be walking slowly and steadily which will help you for better acclimatization. We have planned two nights of acclimatization in Namche, and two nights of acclimatization in Pheriche for the complete acclimatization process during the trip. Our Island Peak climb includes visits to Everest Base Camp (5364m), and Kalapathar (5545m), before heading to the climbing so you will fully acclimatize and adopt the altitude condition prior to your summit approach to Island Peak with us.
Who will be my guide?
Your Island Peak climbing is guided by our local expert Sherap Guides who have more than 15 years experience in climbing in Nepal Himalayas. Our guides are english speaking, eco and altitude trained. Our guides are licensed from Nepal Government, department of tourism, certified from Nepal Mountaineering Association, and trained by Nepal National Mountain Guide Association. Our guides have climbed major 8000m mountains in Nepal and Tibet, including Mt. Everest several times. So, while climbing Island Peak, you are in most professional and safe hands.
Welcome to the Land of Himalayas ! You will be picked up by Classic Vacations Nepal Trek leader at your arrival in Kathmandu International Airport, and transfer to your trip hotel in Kathmandu. Leisure afternoon.
Evening will have a briefing session of Island Peak Climbing with us. You will meet other team members, lead Sherpa Guide and support the team. Classic Vacations Nepal hosts a welcome dinner at one of the finest nepalese restaurants in town. You will be eating typical Nepalese food- Dal Bhat, and will enjoy the cultural atmosphere during welcome dinner.
Accommodation: Hotel Shanker or Hotel Ramada ( 4 star) in Kathmandu
Meals: Welcome Dinner
Today, you will have a free morning and breakfast at the hotel. Afternoon, we will take you for a few hours of wall climbing in town. You will practice rope work, using harness etc.
You may join our half day guided city tour instead. It will be a guided tour to some of the cultural and historical heritage in Kathmandu valley. You will visit Buddha Stupa, one of the famous Buddhist Stupa in Kathmandu valley, Pashupatinath Temple- Biggest Hindu Temple in the city with dead body cremating at the bank of Bagmati River & Monkey Temple- important buddhist shrine in the valley.
Evening, packing your gear for the trek/ climb. If you need to get any last minute gear, you may get it from the thamel stores near your hotel.
Accommodation: Hotel Shanker or Hotel Ramada ( 4 star) in Kathmandu
Meals: Welcome Dinner
Flights to Lukla are trans himalayan flights, and they are usually in the morning. So, we will have a quick breakfast at the hotel, then drive to Kathmandu domestic airport for the Lukla flight.
Note: Due to air traffic in Kathmandu during major tourist seasons, flights to Lukla will be diverted from Rameshap to Lukla instead of Kathmandu to Lukla. In such a case, we will organize a private transfer to Rameshap from Kathmandu, which takes about 3 hours, then fly to Lukla in 15 min only. A lot of times, even if the weather is bad from Kathmandu to Lukla flying route, the weather will be fine from Rameshap to Lukla flying route so major airlines would divert the flights accordingly to the weather condition as well.
We will have no control on this sector flight so we will have to follow the rules and regulations suggested to us by Nepal Civil Aviation and airlines respectively.
At Lukla, you will meet your support team. You will have time for tea/ coffee, change your clothing according to the weather in Lukla and get ready for a hike in the Everest Mountains. Your first day trek to Phakding is short, and relatively easy. You will be walking in a great nature, scenic trail, involves walking in tiny sherpa villages and requires crossing several suspension bridges along the trail. Today's walk is mostly through the Dudh Koshi River valley.
Accommodation: Sherpa Lodge in Phakding
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, Tea/ Coffee, Seasonal Fruits
From Phakding, the trail to Manjo is natural and very scenic along the Dudh Koshi river bank. Reaching Manjo, we then enter Sagarmatha National Park (Mt. Everest National Park), our trek permit will be checked or buy permit here, across the river at a long suspension bridge then continue a pleasant walk to Jorsale. This is the last village before heading to the long hill up to Namche so we shall plan to have lunch here.
Post lunch, cross the longest suspension bridge of this region at Dudh Koshi River, then a short uphill to Hilary suspension bridge which is short but the highest suspension bridge in Dudh Koshi River.
Now onward, the trail to Namche is steep uphill in the mountains. Obviously, every step is uphill here but it has nice subtropical forest surroundings and wonderful green nature. It will take about 2 hours and 30 min to reach Namche Bazaar.
Accommodation: Hotel Camp De Base in Namche- Attached BathRoom/ Hot Shower)
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, Tea/ Coffee, Seasonal Fruits
Having an extra day in Namche today will help our bodies to adjust and acclimatize at altitude and mountain environment, so you will reduce your chance of getting high altitude sickness so this day is very important on this trip for altitude safety.
Today, you will hike to Everest View Hotel (3800m), or Syangboche Hill to Khumjung Valley (3780m) for the short but best acclimatized hike. Everest View Hotel offers a magnificent panorama of Khumbu region mountain view including the top of Mt. Everest, and other mighty peaks.
You will have a free afternoon and evening to stroll around in Namche Markets. Saturday has a local Haat Bazaar (Local of this region gather with their goods to sell and buy at Haat Bazaar) in Namche which is wonderful to experience the traditional market and shopping of the sherpa community and culture.
Accommodation: Hotel Camp De Base in Namche- Attached Bath Room/ Hot Shower)
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, Tea/ Coffee, Seasonal Fruits
Walk from Namche to Kyanjuma is nice and pleasant, then we will hike up to Mong La (3950m), a popular tea stop place en-route to Gokyo Lake. Trail descends to the river valley at Phortse Thanga, across the bridge and hike up through beautiful rhododendron to Phortse village.
Phortse is a nice sherpa village, surrounded by a green hill. It is off the beaten path than a classical trek to Everest Base Camp so it is still remote but full of sherpa culture and tradition.
Accommodation: Phortse Lodge in Phortse Village
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, Tea/ Coffee, Seasonal Fruits
Option Route: Trek to Tengboche is a classical route to Everest Base Camp. As we will be returning from this trek and climbing via Tengboche, we are using a different route as we ascend to explore different valleys in the region.
Phortse to Pangboche is a splendid walking trail. You will have an incredible view of Ama Dablam, Thamserku, Kusum Kangaru along the route. You have the opportunity to see wildlife in this route, eg. mountain goats, musk deer and many himalayan birds including Himalayan Pheasant. This trail walk to Pangboche is through the steep mountain ridge but a safe trail.
Pangboche is a nice sherpa village with cultivated lands, vegetable gardens and farms, the highest permanent settlement village in the region.
Trail from Pangboche to Pheriche is through Imja Khola, changing vegetation from greenery to dry and deserted hill side walk above 4000m in altitude. It is an incredible valley walk up to Pheriche.
Accommodation: Pumari Lodge in Pheriche
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, Tea/ Coffee, Seasonal Fruits
Today is another day of acclimatization in Pheriche. With an easy morning and breakfast at the lodge, we then hike to hill up, or hike to Dingboche ( 4410m) etc. We will climb high, spend some time there, and return back to low altitude again for the day. This way is known as the best way to adopt the altitude and acclimatize.
Afternoon, stroll in Pheriche valley. Trekkers usually start having altitude symptoms at the Pheriche altitude around, so having this day here as complete acclimatization is very important in our trip. Himalayan Rescue Association has a high altitude clinic in Pheriche providing important health and altitude consultation and treatment for altitude sickness.
Accommodation: Pumari Lodge in Pheriche
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, Tea/ Coffee, Seasonal Fruits
From Pheriche, the first one hour of walk is pleasant through the pasture in Pheriche Valley, then the trail is physically demanding as it will gradually ascend to Dungla at 4620m. View of Taboche and Cholatse is spectacular en route.
Walking from Dungla till the top hill of Everest Memorial is a tough and long climb over the rocks and boulders. Here, you will see a few important chortens (Stupas) of great climbers, few of them are Babu Chiri Sherpa (died in 2001) & Scott Fischer (died in 1996), who died on their expedition to Mt. Everest ( 8848 m).
Now onward, the trail to Lobuche is pleasant at an incredible valley, a rugged section formed by the Khumbu glacier.
Accommodation: Hotel Mother Earth or similar at Lobuche
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, Tea/ Coffee, Seasonal Fruits
On the trail to Gorekshep, you will be walking right alongside the Khumbu Glacier. This trail walk is pretty steady, gradual uphill with few small steeper sections en-route. On reaching to Gorekshep, we will first settle at lodge, and will have lunch.
This afternoon, we plan to hike to Kalapathar. Kalapathar is a famous view point for spectacular close-up view of Mt. Everest, and full panorama views of the Everest region mountains. We hike to Kalapathar in the evening for incredible sunset views of Mt. Everest.
Hike to Kalapathar is a mountain climb from Gorekshep. This trail is in a rocky mountain, steep uphill throughout to the top of the Kalapathar.
Kalapathar offers a close-up view of Mt. Everest, towering view of Pumari Mountain, other Everest region panorama and the great Everest Base Camp valley, Khumbu Glacier & Gorekshep itself. Here, you will have the best view of Mt. Everest. You will take enough time to spend this magical place, making photography and videography along with sunset, you then will be back down to Gorekshep.
Accommodation: Hotel Everest Inn Gorekshep
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, Tea/ Coffee, Seasonal Fruits
This morning, after breakfast at the lodge, we will start our hike to Everest Base Camp. We will be walking through a sandy and rocky path on the outskirts of Khumbu Glacier. This trail is a very beautiful landscape walk with great views of Khumbu Himalayas.
On reaching the side of Khumbu Glacier, we will walk slightly up towards the glacier for about 30 min to reach Everest Base Camp. It is part of glacier moraine, rocks and debris.
Congratulations! You have reached this historical and magical land to Everest Base Camp. Here, you will see buddhist prayer flags around, and the famous Everest Base Camp rock. You will have a few hours to enjoy this magic land, glacier surrounding. You could also hike toward Khumbu Icefall. You will have great views of the Khumbu Glacier & Everest region mountains from Everest Base Camp.
After a great moment here, you will return back to Gorekshep (the same way back), and have lunch. With a short break at Gorekshep, we will retrace back to Lobuche.
Accommodation: Hotel Mother Earth Home or similar at Lobuche
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, Tea/ Coffee, Seasonal Fruits
Kongma La pass is one of the three major passes in Everest region trekking. From Lobuche, we will walk across the Khumbu Glacier, over the ice and glacier section, then a steep climb on a rocky trail to the top of Kongma-La (5535m), which takes about 3 hours. From the top of Kongma-La, you will have incredible views of Mt. Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, Makalu, Thamserku, Ama Dablam etc.
From Kongma-La top, we descend through the loose scree and boulder till to frozen lakes which are steep down and could be slippery so we have to be careful as we descend. Further descends through hills down and down to Chhukung Valley. This section walk could be slippery if it rains or snowfall. The View of Imja valley including Chhukung & Dingboche looks spectacular from this route.
Accommodation: Hotel Sunrise Lodge or similar at Chhukung Valley
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, Tea/ Coffee, Seasonal Fruits
Today is a rest day in Chhukung Valley. Afternoon, our climbing guide will check your climbing gear or if you are hiring in Chhukung, he will assist you in hiring personal climbing gear. He will make sure that all your personal climbing gear is upto a good quality and functionable to this trip. Discussion of the Island Peak Climb with lead climbing guide and meet support team.
Accommodation: Hotel Sunrise Lodge or similar at Chhukung Valley
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, Tea/ Coffee, Seasonal Fruits
From Chhukung, we will ascend south, beneath the glacier moraine of Lhotse Glacier, then to a narrowed valley toward the southern flank of Lhotse Glacier until the wide valley of Island Peak is reached, officially known as Island Peak Base Camp area, which is along the side of Imja Glacier.
Our climbing team will set up your camp here. Afternoon, after lunch is served, you will have an ice and glacier climbing session from our expert climbing guide and support team.
Overnight: Tented Camp at Island Peak Base Camp
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, Tea/ Coffee & boiled drinking water
Today is a big day! We will start our hike from base camp at about 1:30 am. Our kitchen team will prepare the early breakfast by then. You will get ready with your day pack where you must have enough water and snacks or chocolate etc. for the day. Hiking from base camp to high camp takes about two hours on rugged trail, rocky sections. From the high camp, we walk about one hour further up to the altitude of about 5800m at rock gully, known as crampons point, from where we will have to use climbing boots and crampons as we will be walking ahead to the glacier and ice section. We will now reach the vertical wall, which is a tough climb but our guide will fix ropes to climb this section to reach the ridge-line. Final summit will be at ridge- line toward summit glacier climb at steep snow slope.
During this climb, we will be crossing a few seasonal cravasses using a ladder, and as the climb is completely in glacier and ice fields, vertical wall, and ridge line, thus requiring the use of the ropes for climb safety, the summit to Island Peak will be much more demanding.
This complete summit climb takes about 8-10 hours, and an early start in the morning will give us enough time for the summit, and return back. Weather in snow capped mountains will be nice and clear in the morning. Once the sun heats the snow, it will start melting, and from sun heat, weather starts to change, so the strong wind starts blowing which makes our summit climb much difficult so we always climb in the early morning. We shall plan to reach the top of island peak at 9:00 am.
Mornings usually have great weather conditions in the mountains. You will have incredible views of Lhotse, Nuptse, Makalu, Baruntse, Ama Dablam and other himalayan panoramas of Khumbu region mountains from the Island Peak summit.
After spending some time at the summit for photography and videography, we then prepare to descend following the same route all the way down to crampon point, where our kitchen staff will bring some soup and light food for you. Further descend to base camp, then to Chhukung valley for overnight stay.
Accommodation: Mt. Lodge in Chhukung Valley
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, Tea/ Coffee & boiled drinking water
Today is an extra day planned in the itinerary for Island Peak summit. If, weather gets extremely bad for summit day, we will have to wait for good weather and summit the peak the next day, thus this extra day is planned. If our summit will be as per the date planned, you shall use this extra day on the way back to Lukla or back in Kathmandu as per your interest.
Accommodation: Mt. Lodge in Chhukung Valley
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, Tea/ Coffee & boiled drinking water
With a leisurely morning and breakfast at a lodge in Chhukung, we trek down to Dingboche, then descend to Pangboche. From here, we will have a nice and pleasant walk in green nature to deboche, then a small hill up to Tengboche. Here, we will visit Tengboche Monastery, which is one of the biggest Buddhist Monasteries in Khumbu region. Another long descent in sub- tropical forest brings us down to Phuke Tanga along the riverside, across the bridge, then gently uphill up to Kyanjuma from where trail to Namche is easy and pleasant. Today's walk is incredible in landscape and nature.
Accommodation: Hotel Camp De Base or Similar in Namche
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, Tea/ Coffee & Seasonal Fruits
From Namche, the trail descends at a hill to Hilary Suspension bridge, then a gentle green valley walk to Manjo. Another short pleasant walk brings us to Phakding village. From Phakding, we have a nice and pleasant walk in Dudh Koshi Valley along the river side for several hours, then slightly climb up to Lukla for overnight stay. Tonight, you have a celebration dinner with your trek/climb crew.
Accommodation: Paradise Lodge or Similar in Lukla
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, Tea/ Coffee & Seasonal Fruits
Morning flight to Kathmandu. You will have a leisure day. In the evening, we meet, and take feedback of your trek/climb with us, and then will host farewell dinner at one of the finest restaurants in town.
Accommodation: Hotel Ramada Or Hotel Shanker in Kathmandu
Meals: Breakfast & Farewell Dinner
Today, your trip ends with us. You have morning breakfast at the hotel, then you are free from our package. We shall provide you a transfer to the airport at your departure, and our services end! If you staying longer in Kathmandu, and need our help for other activities etc., we shall be very pleased to assist you as per your requirements.
End of the trip!
We are team of professionals who share a common devotion to the outdoors and are commited to world travel.
Originally from Khumjung- 3, Everest Region, Mr. Pema Chhosang Sherpa is our key climbing guide for major peaks in Everest region, including Island Peak, Lobuche Peak, Kyajo- Ri Peaks and other 7000er climbing in the region.
Bal Bahadur Tamang was born in Solukhumbu. After completing his eighth grade, he left his village and went to Jiri to work as a porter. His first experience as a porter was to carry a big sack of rice from Jiri to Lukla. He has carried as heavy as 60 kg of load on his back as a porter.
Island Peak is at the prime location in Khumbu, officially known as Saragmatha National Park, Everest region. It is south from Chhukung Valley, along the south flank of the Lhotse glacier. It is centrally located in the Everest Region. It is one of the famous trekking peaks in the region. It takes about 5 days walking from Lukla, and two days walking from Everest Base Camp, Kalapathar and Gorekshep. It takes 3 days to reach Island Peak from Namche Bazaar.
Not really? You have to go slowly, take time to acclimatize and adjust your body in altitude. This way, you are better prepared for this climb.
You will be in professionally guided treks and climb during this climb with us, and we will ensure that you will stay healthy. In case you are unwell, we will monitor your health and try our best to keep you well. We shall use medication if necessary to cure you. However if your health gets worse, it may be due to altitude sickness. We will use medication for altitude sickness to keep you well but you do not recover, we shall immediately descend you down valley for your safety. In general, at altitude sickness, once you descend, you should easily recover. If you recover, and wish to continue the trip again, we shall continue your trip again.
But if you do not recover despite getting down, and your sickness worsens, you have to return back to kathmandu immediately for your further treatment and safety. In such a case, you have to fly by helicopter back to Kathmandu and you should have travel insurance to cover you for this evacuation.
Yes. We need a climbing permit to climb Island Peak. Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) is an authorized body to issue climbing permits for all 27 trekking peaks in Nepal, including Island Peak. NMA is a national alpine association of Nepal to promote mountain tourism in Nepal. It costs US$- 250 per person in spring months, and US$- 125 per person in autumn months. In the winter and summer months, it costs US$- 90 per person. In addition to NMA permit, you need Everest National Park permit and Khumbu Rural Municipality permit to trek and climb to Island Peak.
Island Peak Climbing is a semi technical peak climb and it requires some climbing skills and technical support to plan it so you need an expert climbing guide to climb this peak for safety and successful climb.
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